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P0420

fault code guide

P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

Your engine computer has detected that the catalytic converter is not cleaning exhaust gases as efficiently as it should. The car usually drives normally, but it produces higher emissions and needs inspecting soon.

How it shows up: This fault triggers a steady amber engine management light on your instrument cluster, though you may also notice a slight increase in fuel consumption. The specific P0420 code is retrieved by plugging an OBD scanner into the diagnostic socket.

Updated 9 November 2026

Can I keep driving?

Service soon

You can safely drive for now, but leaving an inefficient converter unresolved causes higher tailpipe emissions and can eventually lead to exhaust blockages.

What to do right now

  1. 1Check your instrument cluster to confirm the amber engine light is steady and not flashing.
  2. 2Listen carefully for any unusual hissing, blowing, or rattling noises coming from beneath the vehicle floor.
  3. 3Continue your journey with moderate acceleration and arrange to have the car inspected soon.

Likely causes

Most likely first.

  1. Likely

    Worn or degraded catalytic converter

    Over time and mileage, the precious metal coatings inside the converter break down and lose their ability to neutralise harmful exhaust gases.

  2. Possible

    Exhaust leak near the rear sensor

    A cracked pipe, split weld, or blown gasket draws fresh air into the exhaust stream, tricking the downstream sensor into reporting poor catalyst performance.

  3. Possible

    Faulty downstream oxygen sensor

    The oxygen sensor fitted after the converter can become slow or provide inaccurate voltage signals as it ages, prompting the engine computer to log an efficiency fault.

  4. Possible

    Unburnt fuel or oil entering the exhaust

    A lingering engine misfire or burning engine oil can coat the converter internals in soot or overheat the core, degrading its cleaning efficiency.

What you can check yourself

Park somewhere safe and level, engine off, before you start.

  1. 1

    Check warning light behaviour

    Note whether the engine light stays steady or flashes while driving. A steady light means you can drive on cautiously, but a flashing light warns of an active misfire that can melt the converter quickly.

  2. 2

    Listen for exhaust blows or rattles

    Park on a flat surface, apply the handbrake, and let the engine idle while you stand beside the car. A loud puffing or ticking sound suggests an exhaust leak, whereas a metallic rattle under the floor can indicate a broken ceramic core inside the converter.

  3. 3

    Scan for companion fault codes

    Plug a handheld OBD scanner into the port beneath the steering wheel to check for extra codes. Codes relating to engine misfires, fuel trim, or oxygen sensor heaters must always be repaired before replacing a converter.

  4. 4

    Inspect engine oil level and exhaust colour

    With the engine cold and switched off, pull the dipstick under the bonnet to verify oil level. If the level drops quickly between services or you spot blue smoke from the exhaust, burning oil may be poisoning the catalyst.

Rough cost to fix

Rough estimate

Typical prices in Ireland (€) and the UK (£), from an independent garage up to a main dealer. The final bill depends heavily on whether the catalytic converter itself has failed or if a simple sensor or exhaust gasket leak triggered the code, with genuine manufacturer parts costing substantially more.

  • Catalytic converter replacement

    Do it yourself
    €220–650£190–550 in the UK
    At a garage
    €450–1,200£380–1,050 in the UK
  • Downstream oxygen sensor replacement

    Do it yourself
    €50–140£40–120 in the UK
    At a garage
    €130–260£110–220 in the UK
  • Exhaust leak repair or gasket renewal

    Do it yourself
    €20–60£15–50 in the UK
    At a garage
    €90–220£75–190 in the UK

When to go to a garage

  • The engine management light starts flashing, which signals an active engine misfire that can rapidly melt the catalytic converter.
  • The car noticeably loses power, hesitates during acceleration, or refuses to rev freely, suggesting a blocked exhaust.
  • You smell strong exhaust fumes or sulphur inside the vehicle cabin while driving.
  • The warning light returns after clearing the code, confirming an active emissions fault that requires garage diagnosis.

Questions drivers ask

Can I still drive my car with fault code P0420?

Yes, you can normally drive without immediate safety concerns because the engine and brakes operate as normal. However, you should book a repair soon because running with a degraded converter increases toxic exhaust emissions and may slowly harm fuel economy. If the light begins flashing or the car loses acceleration, pull over and seek assistance.

Will clearing the fault code fix the issue?

No, clearing the code with an OBD reader only resets the warning light temporarily. The engine computer runs an emissions readiness monitor whenever you drive, and it will log P0420 again within a few journeys once it detects that the catalyst efficiency remains below the required threshold.

What is the difference between code P0420 and code P0430?

Both codes indicate identical catalyst efficiency problems, but on different sides of the engine. P0420 refers to Bank 1, which houses cylinder number one, whereas P0430 refers to Bank 2 on vehicles with V6 or V8 engines that have two separate exhaust banks.

Will my car pass its MOT or NCT with code P0420?

For the UK MOT, a lit engine management light is an automatic failure on petrol cars first used from July 2003 and diesels from July 2008. For the Irish NCT, an illuminated engine light or stored emissions code results in an Advisory Pass on its own, but the car will fail if the underlying catalyst problem causes exhaust tailpipe emissions to exceed legal test limits.

Test rules here are for the National Car Test in Ireland (NCT) and the MOT in the UK. Elsewhere, check the regulations of your own country or state before going for a vehicle test.

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General guidance for most cars, not a diagnosis of yours. Details differ by make, model and year - check your handbook, and if in doubt, don't drive.